by The American musician and producer Pharrell Williams was named, this Tuesday, the new creative director of the men’s collections of the luxury brand Louis Vuitton. Williams, 49, will succeed Virgil Abloh, who died in November 2021 aged 41.
According to a statement from the brand, which is owned by French conglomerate LVMH, the appointment is effective immediately, with Pharrell Williams already presenting his first collection in June during men’s fashion week in Paris.
For the luxury brand, Pharrell Williams is a “visionary” whose creative universe spans music, art and fashion, and who has established himself as “a global cultural icon over the past 20 years.” “His ability to blur the boundaries between the different universes he explores is a natural fit with the cultural dimension of Louis Vuitton,” the company’s statement said.
Musician, composer, producer, who was at the origin of Neptunes and NERD, has long been considered an important figure in fashion as well, thanks to his collaborations with the Japanese brand Nigo, Adidas and Chanel. Pharrell Williams has also occasionally collaborated with Louis Vuitton in 2004 and 2008.
The French luxury brand group LVMH, which in 2022 achieved the highest profits in its history, with 14 billion euros, includes brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Tiffany, Christian Dior, Bulgari, Kenzo and Moët & Chandon.
For several months there has been speculation as to who would fill the position vacated by Virgil Abloh more than a year ago. Fashion pundits speculated that Britain’s Grace Wales Bonner or Martine Rose could fill the role, as they had a signature in line with what the North American had developed at the French house. street clothes luxurious.
The appointment of Pharrell Williams is symptomatic of a trend in luxury fashion: marketing has overtaken creativity. “It’s no longer about creation, it’s just about the science of marketing. It has nothing to do with fashion,” lamented fashion historian Paulo Morais-Alexandre in PÚBLICO. Williams will be more of a curator than a designer at Louis Vuitton, renewing attention for the fashion house and positioning it more as a cultural factor, as noted by the WWD special edition.
The choice of the musician and composer for menswear creative direction contrasts with Gucci’s choice to replace Alessandro Michele. The Italian brand chose an almost unknown designer – Sabato de Sarno worked behind the scenes with Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino. Pharrell’s date Williams may have been influenced by him. Virgil Abloh, since the closeness and friendship between them was known.
It is expected, in this sense, that Pharrell Williams will carry on Abloh’s legacy, without major upheavals, but with a greater emphasis on color and accessories, known to be his trademark.
